Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0630

0810

de-camp

Morning temperature in high 50 degrees

0810

0910

Hike

1.9 mi

 

-360 ft

1.9 m

Photo

The ground cover is dense sage brush with a labyrinth of openings  wide enough for a pair of legs.  A hiker could be covering 30 pct more distance than registered by a GPS due to a constant zig-zag around the brush.  Hiking in drainage is best way to make time, but the footing is not very good.

0910

0945

Hike

1.1

-280 ft

3.0

After roughly 2 miles the brush thins out in some pseudo meadows.  Then, the terrain becomes more difficult as big boulders and mature growths of sage plus juniper necessitate some maneuvers requiring both hands and feet.

0945

1000

Descend
Cliff

0

 

-50 ft

Photo

The first [highest in elevation] of the three Coconino Cliffs is encountered at N36°27.6309' W112°31.3433'.   If heading from rim to river, navigate on left [south] side.  Head down wherever this is easily accomplished.  When cannot seem go further, make a 180 degree turn on school bus sized sandstone rock and walk back towards the chockstone for 20 feet.  Hug the south [now your right] wall and  descend the steep rock ramp and arrive at the base of the chockstone. 

1000

1005

Hike

.1m

-50 ft

3.1

Enjoy the easy walk in the creek bed

1005

1025

Descend Cliff

Photo

The middle of the three Coconino Cliffs is encountered at N36°27.6239' W112°31.3980'

If heading from rim to river, navigate on right [north] side.  Stay high along worn path until the sudden dropoff.   The hand over hand descent down a near vertical crack is obvious as is the trail below.  Lower packs using 25 feet of rope.  Use care to find footholds in the 10 to 15 feet of near vertical crack. 

1025

1035

Hike

.1m

3.2

Hike on steep banks on the far right uphill side of creek bed – perhaps 50 or more feet above the creek bed.  Do not descend into creek bed despite some inviting well-worn trails—hikers and wildlife wandering back and forth have confused the route.  .  Instead stay as high as is easily possible.  In our case, not knowing the way doubled the time required

1035

1105

Descend Cliff

-100 ft

Photo

The last [lowest in elevation] of the three Coconino Cliffs is encountered at N36°27.6372' W112°31.3941'.  The exact spot is where down canyon progress [along the far right uphill side of the creek bed] is inhibited by an upward vertical rock face of perhaps 10 feet.  Between this vertical face and the far right uphill bank of the creek bed is a well worn crack.  Lower packs using a 25-foot rope.

Total time to traverse the 3 Coconino drops was 1 hr and 20 minutes.  If better directions were available or if the route were marked by cairns  – meaning we did not have to search for the cracks and ramps, we could probably have done the Coconino crossing in an hour.

1105

1145

Hike

.7mi

-320 ft

3.9

Below the Coconino cliffs the trail follows the creek bed.  One starts to see signs of Supi formation after 2 minutes and the canyon progressively opens wider and wider.   Despite the quickly increasing temperatures and melon sized rocks in the streambed, the travel is much easier than any of the steep Coconino or the sage and juniper impeded Kaibab.

1145

1205

Lunch

40 minutes after finishing the Coconino, we found a nice shade tree for a lunch stop.

1205

1335

Hike

3.5

-1120
    ft

7.4

At about the 4 mile point, the melon sized rocks abated and the majority of the stream bed improved to  a small-medium gravel.  Hiking in a pleasant sandy wash makes for fairly good time.  We saw the first signs of red wall at 12:45 and N36°27.6735' W112°32.8801'.  We saw the first sign of water in springs and pools at N36°27.9781' W112°33.3422' and approximately 6 miles from the parking lot.  For the next mile and half, there were springs, seeps, and shallow pools half the time.  The trail consisted of hiking on bedrock when the pools and seeps were present.  The other half of the time, the trail is in a rocky wash with a lot of navigating of 0.5, 1, and 2 foot rocks.  A few sorties into the brush on the right or left side are necessary to navigate tall vertical falls.  There is nothing challenging to these detours.  They are just tiring.

1355

1530

Soak

A nice one foot deep pool invited us for a long soak. 

N36°28.4712' W112°34.2099'

1530

1610

Hike

1.2m

-510 ft

8.6m

Springs, seeps, and shallow pools were once again present half of the time.  As before, the trail consisted of hiking on bedrock when the water was present.  The other half of the time, the trail is in a rocky wash with a lot of navigating of 0.5, 1, and 2 foot rocks.  A few sorties into the brush on the side are necessary to navigate tall vertical falls.  A large rockslide N36°28.7857' W112°34.6568' with a large pool downstream at made for 50 feet of challenging and tiring navigation.  High water would force a wet crossing.

There was uncertainty whether this challenging section was the first of the obstacle pools in George Steck’s book.  The nice soaking pool about just over a mile previous also fit the scenario.  The distances and times were about right.  We were wrong, there was another 1.4 miles to go to the first obstacle pool.

1610

Camp

Given the uncertainty and the lateness of the hour,  the decision was made to camp.  We were in a lovely spot by a generously flowing spring.  Camping was comfortable.  Loud frogs entertained most of night.

Despite covering less than 9 downhill miles, the day was exhausting due to heavy packs laden with 7 days food, significant bushwacking, and irregular walking surfaces.  The difficulty of the route is underscored by the fact that it took 8 hours to cover just under 9 miles. 

Thankfully no blisters had developed.  We were however quite scraped up from bushes and rocks.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0610

0810

de-camp

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

Temperature in low 60’s

0810

0830

Hike to
Deep Pool

.6

-50 ft

.6

[8.8
park
lot]

Photo

In 20 minutes and just over a half mile, a deep pool was passed – likely the one written about in Steck’s book.  The place has a good camping spot, water is available, and there was evidence of visitors earlier the hiking season.  The total distance from the Indian Hollow Parking lot is 9.2 miles. 

N36°29.2336' W112°34.6840'

0830

0900

Hike to upper obstacle

.8

1.4

 

For nearly one and half miles the hiking is excellent in a well defined streambed.  One third the travel is on gravel,  another third is hopping around 2 foot boulders, and the final third is on slickrock. 

0900

0950

Descend

obstacle

-30 ft

[9.6
park

lot]

[20

river]

At 10 miles from the Parking Lot and just under an hour into our second day we encountered the upper obstacle pool.  N36°29.7654' W112°34.8779.  It is an imposing feature and had we not read that it was passable, we would have given up and turned around. 

We opted for the straight approach and did not circumnavigate.  There are actually two spots where one has to lower packs separated by a hundred feet or so of large boulder rubble.  The first spot is found on the right side of the creek bed where one can climb down with reasonable handholds amidst grayish colored ledges.  The route is sufficiently steep with potentially painful consequences in the event of a slip that we lowered packs by rope, belayed Margaret, and then she assisted my descent from below.  The route is not marked nor worn.  Simply use best judgment. 

The second drop can be made to the right or the left of a giant boulder at the base of the rubble.  Both routes ended in a pool – two different pools actually  We chose the right [north] route because it appeared easier.  It was possible to wade this pool.  All vertical drops were less than 5 feet.  Doug went first and Margaret handed packs which Doug carried across the pool.  Then Margaret dropped into the water and waded to the far shore.   Different water conditions or re-arrangement of the boulder rubble could easily change the approach to this obstacle.

0950

1010

Hike to
lower
Obstacle

.4

1.8

 

This leg is under a half mile.  The hike between first and second obstacle pools can be done in 15 minutes as reported.  We saw a small snake amidst some rocks and stopped to take pictures.

1010

1140

Descend
obstacle

.4 m
expl

-60 ft

[10
park
lot]

[19.6

river]

The lower obstacle pool is even more imposing that the upper obstacle pool.  The actual obstacle took us 50 minutes to navigate.  In addition we spent the first 20 minutes were looking for a circumnavigation route on both north and south rims.    Then, after we had successfully descended we spent another 20 minutes having lunch. The water level was high enough that we got wet up to our chest.  The belay of our packs required 60 ft of line.  

 

One approaches the spot [ N36°29.9821' W112°35.1496' ] walking along a mellow pleasant slickrock drainage.  The drainage abruptly ends at the obstacle.   There is a single route for hikers with two significant drops.  The first involves a 10-15 foot drop mostly along well worn sandstone slanted at a 75 degree angle.  One could slide on their belly and hope they don’t pick up too much speed.  In our case it was a simple matter to loop a rope around a tree branch above and self belay ourselves down the drop.  The second drop involves a few 4-6 foot vertical steps ending in a pool of water which during May 2009  season was only chest deep. 

There are two possibilities for the backpacks.  The first possibility would send the backpacks down the same route as the hikers.   The backpacks would be belayed down the well worn sandstone and the vertical steps into waiting hands of hikers standing in the pool of water.  With enough strong hands, shallow enough pools, assurance testing of the footing in the pool of water, and sufficient waterproofing preventative measures, this route would make sense.  In our case, it seemed just as easy to belay the backpacks from the redwall rim above the obstacle all the way to the canyon floor below the pool.  The walls are vertical and there is a good spot for such maneuver on the left [south] side of the canyon.  To reach this good spot, one must hike back upstream [east] about 500 feet and then walk up the 30 degree sandstone incline of the south wall.  Walk as high as possible [a sheer cliff prevents from going higher].  Then walk back [west] to the obstacle and continue another 200 feet further down canyon.  Turn right [north] and descend to the rim of the canyon below the obstacle 60 feet below.  Pick a suitable belay spot and lower packs to a member of the party waiting below.

Be certain to plan this crossing of this obstacle carefully.  Ropes, belay-ers, backpacks, and party members must be in the right spots and properly sequenced.

As testimony to the difficulty of this obstacle, we noticed dozens of foot prints below the obstacle [and for the rest or our hike in Jumpup and Kanab] headed both upstream and downstream; but above the obstacle we had seen just a solo set of footprints headed downstream.  We believe in that during the spring hiking season of 2009, not a single party had successfully gone out from Kanab to Indian Hollow. 

1140

1200

Hike to
Jumpup
Canyon
entry

.4

2.6

 

[10.4
park

lot]

[19.2

river]

Indian Hollow is joined by Jumpup Canyon at N36°30.0486' W112°35.6068' which is less than a half mile below the lower obstacle pool. 

Hiking this stretch is a combination of gravel, loose 6 inch boulders and more solidly anchored 12 inch boulders.  The footing is often difficult and an ankle sprain could easily happen.  Hiking poles are quite helpful for keeping balance.  Heavy weight hiking boots would be welcome in this section.  There is no longer any vegetation.

1200

1335

Hike to
Kanab
Canyon

3

5.6

[13.4
park

lot]

[16.2
river]

For the next 3 to 4 miles, the hiking is a combination of gravel, loose 6 inch boulders and more solidly anchored 12 inch boulders.  The footing is often difficult and an ankle sprain could easily happen.  Hiking poles are quite helpful for keeping balance.  Heavy weight hiking boots would be welcome in this section.  There is no chance to loose the route.

There is no longer any vegetation.  The sun is directly overhead resulting in little shade.  The temperatures are in the high 90’s.  There are no sources of water alongside the route.  We did not take the detour to Lower Jumpup Springs so no comment is offered on its reliability in May 2009.

GPS readings are erratic due to high canyon walls.

Confluence with Kanab Creek noted at N36°29.1849' W112°37.6901'.

1335

1505

Hike Kanab
Canyon to Pencil
Spring

3

8.6

[13.2
River]

The first 4 miles of Kanab Creek is dry and hot.  Hiking is in the Creek bed on gravel and rounded river rock -- some of the best footing encountered so far.   At about 4 miles after the junction of Jumpup and Kanab canyons small pockets of water appear laden with algae.  While the water looks refreshing, it is best to wait for a reliable spring just downstream. 

At 4.1 GPS miles from the Kanab-Jumpup junction there is a strong spring feeding fresh water into Kanab Creek from the left [east] wall.  N36°28.1290' W112°37.8421'.  We assume this is the water source called Pencil Spring.  The actual spring is perhaps 20 feet from Kanab Creek and up a narrow tributary that diagonals off at about 7-o’clock

. 

1505

1535

Rest & Drink

[16.4
park

lot]

We drank large quantities Pencil Spring water right as it emerged from the redwall and didn’t bother to treat or filter.  We did not suffer any consequences.

1535

1635

Hike to Shower Bath Spring

2.4

11.0

Supplied by Pencil Spring and numerous smaller springs, Kanab Canyon quickly gains a significant water flow.  Now the hiking game has changed from balancing on loose rock to keeping footgear dry.  Stream crossings are required every 200 to 500 feet of distance.  Backtracking is often necessary to utilize boulders – large and small- for stream crossings.  In a half dozen areas rockslides have rendered walking along the banks impossible.  Gains of 30-50 ft of elevation along barely discernable scrambles are required. Still it is possible to make good time because apart from the obstacles, the walking is on sandy clay.

1635

1745

Play at Spring

[18.8
park

lot]

[10.8

river]

Shower Bath Spring -- N36°27.3961' W112°38.4838' -- is well worth a refreshing stop. 
  - cool off
  - clean up
  - hydrate
  - take in the scenery. 

1745

1850

Hike to Scotty’s Castle

1.7

-300 ft

12.7

[20.5
park

lot]

[9.1

river]

Continue hiking along Kanab Canyon with its significant water flow.  In order to keep footgear dry stream crossings are required every 200 to 500 ft.  Backtracking is frequently necessary to utilize boulders – large and small- for stream crossings.  In over a dozen areas rockslides have rendered walking along the banks impossible.  Gains of 30-50 ft of elevation along barely discernable scrambles are required.  There are also a dozen areas of easy hiking where the trail shortcuts across sandy / grassy plateaus away from the river bed.  We are able to first see Scotties Castle at 1825 about half mile away.   

1850

Camp

The area immediately surrounding Scotty’s Castle is strewn with large boulders and river debris.  We did not notice many desirable camping spots.  So we continued hiking to the south side of Scotty’s Castle and took the first suitable spot at:  N36°26.7673' W112°38.7896'.   The next morning we found much nicer spots another mile downstream.

Thankfully blisters have still not developed.  We are however even more scraped up from bushes and rocks.  And the bottoms of our feet are tender.  The greatest difficulty however may be attributed to the stubbing of toes on boulders.  Toe nails are black and blue and painful.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0640

0840

de-camp

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

Temperature in low 80’s even at 7AM

0840

1230

Hike to Whisper
   -ing
Springs

4.9

4.9

The day’s hiking begins down Kanab Canyon with significant water flowing.  Once again we choose the option to keep our feet dry and make frequent stream crossings.  Backtracking is frequently necessary to utilize boulders – large and small- for stream crossings.

In general, one cannot get lost – it’s a simple matter to say in Kanab Canyon.  But route finding is frustrating.   In well over a dozen areas rockslides have rendered walking along the banks impossible.  Gains of 50-100 ft of elevation along barely discernable scrambles are required.  Numerous dead ends were encountered causing selection of alternate scrambles.  Due to large boulders and other debris, the mile immediately south of Scotties Tower has some of the toughest up and down and route finding of the entire trip. 

About a mile and half below Scotty’s castle we were treated to 8 mountain goats scampering on a hillside. 

There are some spots of easy hiking where the trail shortcuts across sandy / grassy plateaus away from the river bed

1230

1455

Eat

Visit
Soak
Cool off

[25.4

park

lot]

[4.2
river]

Despite hot mid-day sun, we found a nice shady spot to have lunch and rearrange our gear for a visit to Whispering Springs. GPS [estimate because canyon was too narrow for satellite reception]:  N36.428 deg E112.632 deg.

The route to Whispering Springs starts by walking across rock rubble of various sizes.  After a short-ish ¼ mile one arrives at a cool shady seep with a mildly inviting pool.   The trail seemingly ends at this seep leaving the visitor disappointed.  In reality, Whispering Springs are another ½ mile of hiking upstream.  To get beyond the first seep, scramble up the steep rubble hill to left [north] of first seep for 50 feet of vertical.  Then keep within 50 ft of streambed until confining vertical walls of Whispering Springs force you first into long thin stream and then still higher to the high sacred pool.

1455

1735

Hike to
Colorado
River
Willows

4.0

9.1

Kanab Canyon below Whispering Springs also had significant water flow in May 2009.  Backtracking is frequently necessary to utilize boulders – large and small- for stream crossings.  In over a dozen areas rockslides have rendered walking along the banks impossible.  Gains of 30-50 ft of elevation along barely discernable scrambles are required.

We frequently found it necessary to toss a few watermelon-sized rocks into the creek to enable crossing.  The time and energy commitment for this activity seemed less than repeatedly changing shoes in order to keep hiking shoes and socks dry.

The NPS reports that the distance from the Colorado to Whispering Springs canyon is 3.5 miles.  Indeed tracing this route on a topographic map yields 3.5 miles.  However, if one crosses Kanab Creek 50 times [eg roughly every 200 feet] by making a right angle turn and walking 50 feet to the opposite bank, when added together those 50 foot crossings yield an extra half mile of travel.  Add to those 50 crossings a dozen switchback traverses to 40 vertical feet and it is easy to see how 3.5 best-case streambed miles can become 4.4 miles of actual walking.

1735

1810

Find Camp

.6

9.7
-440 ft

A quarter-mile before Kanab Creek meets the Colorado River, willows begin to grow.  A well-traveled trail heads off into the willows on the left [east] side of Kanab Creek.  Unfortunately, the trail dead-ended before reaching the river mile thereby forcing a retrace.  We briefly explored the sand dunes above the willows on the right [west] side of Kanab Creek but found the travel quite difficult.  Again we retreated.  Finally we swapped our hiking shoes for water shoes and completed the last half-mile to the confluence in water shoes sloshing through the creek.

1810

Camp

[29.6
park

lot]

The nicest camping spots [flat / sandy] were on west side of Kanab Creek.  Camping on east side was on an incline and overgrown with willows. 

The temperature was over 105 degrees and there were 20+ Mph winds.  It was very uncomfortable.  Fortunately the Colorado River was a refreshing 52 degrees.  We were also fortunate that the sun had set behind the rim leaving us in the shade.

Unfortunately, blisters had developed due to unusual walking patterns caused by sore feet and stubbed toes.  And we are experiencing mild stomach displeasure from the remanufactured protein in energy bars and dehydrated foods.  Plus we are obviously dehydrated, not from lack of water intake but from excessive fluid outgo.  And we are dead tired from heavy packs, trail miles, and awkward footing.  There is comfort in knowing that help is available should we need it from this point forward.  There is anxiety in the understanding that the toughest day [by all accounts] is yet to come.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0620

0840

de-camp

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

Temperature at 7AM was again in the high 80’s

0840

0850

Hike

.1

.1

The day started by immediately crossing Kanab Creek which involves starting with wet feet.  We did this crossing with water shoes and promptly changed to try hiking shoes. 

0850

0950

1000

1035

1045

1110

1120

1205

1245

1320

1335

1410

1500

1525

1635

1700

Hike
Along

Colorado

l.6

0.5

0.5

1.4

0.8

0.9

1.0

0.5

1.7

2.2

2.7

4.1

4.9

5.8

6.8

7.3

For the first hour we hiked mostly on firm sand behind the tamarisk and willow that line the Colorado river shore.  We were able to make relatively good time on this stretch.  Subsequent stretches were more difficult. 

The route is described as boulder hopping which is a somewhat ambiguous description.  More precisely, the route consisted of ¼ walking along the Colorado river on firm dense river sand.  These were delightful stretches.  Frequently however the river banks were overgrown with tamarisk or rendered impassible with large or poorly spaced boulders.  So ¾ the time we spent away from the river.  Perhaps ¼ the distance was covered along very hot very loose sandy backwash behind the tamarisk.  The heat, footing, lack of breeze, and lots of small up/down required high levels of exertion.  Easily ½ the distance was away from the Colorado river from 50 to 500 feet.  In these stretches we were weaving around and hopping over inner-gorge volcanic boulders [dark color, hot to touch, very abrasive].  The boulders ranged from 1 foot in diameter to 10 feet in diameter.  Most were 2 to 3 feet.  Light breezes helped with evaporative cooling so these sections were less warm than hiking behind the tamarisk.  But these boulder hopping stretches had much more up and down to them.  We found our hiking poles only marginally useful and would have traded for light leather gloves to protect against the sharp edges of the rocks.

Between mile 5.3 and mile 7 somebody had placed obvious cairns to lead the way.  Reason unknown.  The route was no more or less challenging.  We arrived at Fishtail canyon [dry] stream bed crossing was at mile 6.5 by GPS.  Cranberry canyon was at mile 7.3 miles by GPS

By 10AM the temperature was in the high 90’s with and intense sun.  Rest stops were needed every half hour or so. We would generally find a sandy spot along the Colorado River, strip naked, and sit in river for 5-10 minutes to cool down.  Before starting to hike again, we would moisten our clothes which would then help cool us for about a half hour until they were dry and hot. 

Overall, we spent 3 hr 45 min actually hiking and covered 5.1 miles.  We spent a total of 3 hr 15 min sitting by or in the Colorado River keeping cool.  Our major rests were a Lunch stop at 1205, a 50 minute rest stop under shade of willows along river edge at 1410, and a 70 minute rest stop on a nice beach at the east end of Fishtail at 1525.

We Saw a docile rattler at 1005 on this leg.  We took to counting boats as we traversed this stretch.  All total we counted 39 boats, 6 of which were kayaks.  Many of them waived to us and several shouted amazement that we were in such no-man’s land.

1700

Camp

Cranberry canyon does not have many good campsites.  Further from the river, the heat was oppressing.  Good possibilities with nice exposure upstream and downstream of the streambed had hot winds of 10+ mph.  So we first chose a spot in the creek-bed and near the Colorado River for its combination of cool temperature, light wind, and shade.  We started preparing dinner.  Within 2 hours, the river level had risen a foot and flooded our dinner site [it still had to rise another 3 feet to where we planned to enjoy a good night’s rest].  Aware that the river does indeed rise and fall and unsure of the background for the changed we observed, we chose to relocate our sleeping spot to higher ground.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0515

0715

de-camp

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

We decided for an early Start to get more distance before hot sun.  Even still the 7AM temperature was in the high 80’s

0715

0755

Hike to Siesta Spring

0.8

0.8

When leaving Cranberry Canyon, find the large cairn 100 ft from river bank and take obvious diagonal route ENE toward what appears to be a useable high traverse.  The cairn’s peter out quickly, but keep heading diagonally up hill.  About 200 feet above the river is a well-worn track. 

This entire leg to Siesta Spring is on a ‘well-worn’ track with frequent cairns to help with route finding when crossing the numerous small rockslides and gullies.  This entire leg is several hundred feet above the river.  We would have made better time except for some indecision at the start and except for picture taking.  Arrive at Siesta Spring -- GPS:  N39.3977  W112.5303 [DD.dddd] -- which is about 200 ft above the Colorado River level.  

There is no convenient camping at Siesta Spring.  The water was flowing in May but the lush vegetation [cat-tails, grasses, and even a palm tree] made access difficult.  Unless I found the exact source, I would filter this water.

0755

0850

Hike to

Colorado River
below

Deer
Creek

Falls

1.1

1.9

The ‘well-worn’ track and its comforting cairns lead one slightly up-hill for the next four tenths of a mile.  Then, the track gradually peters out and the cairns end leaving one to find their own route.  We had lost all helpful assistance by the time we encountered a prominent ridgeline perpendicular to the Colorado and some 350 feet above the water.  GPS coordinates N36.3954 W112.5440 [DD.dddd].  At this point we could see our probable destination – a 50 foot wide saddle about 150 feet above the river and the only likely break in the approaching tapeats cliffs.

So we decided to stop contouring [there were no signs of trail] and made an abrupt left turn toward the river and descended steeply for 150 vertical feet to GPS 36.3947 W112.5244 by following the aforementioned ridgeline.  We were now within vertical 50 feet of the saddle and less than 1000 feet away.  We contoured our way over to the saddle ever mindful to find the best footing.   At times this traverse required being on ‘all four’s – even hiking poles were insufficient.

Once on the saddle it was easy travel.  A quick GPS reading roughly in the middle yielded N36.393  W112.523  [DD.ddd] 

Once at the saddle, we expected to find the ‘well-worn, track again.  But there was no sign of it.  After a bit of a rest, we hiked about 400 feet to the upstream side of the saddle and quickly noted an established route down 150 feet to the Colorado River level GPS:  N36.3924 W112.5224 [DD.dddd] top of route and N39.2922  W112.5225 [DD.dddd] bottom of route.

The possibility exists that we should have headed uphill when we lost the well ‘worn track’  If we had gained 150 vertical feet instead of loosing 150 vertical feet, we could have crossed the tapeats at another higher saddle.  But the closer contour lines on the topo map gave us pause and aimed us to the route we took.

The ‘well-worn’ track likely had its origins in a game trail leading to Siesta Springs from both directions.  But the placement of cairns in such a remote location seems a bit peculiar.

0920

0950

Hike

.8

2.7

Once back down at the Colorado River level, the route follows a sandy track close to the River.  The track is heavily used and easy to follow.  The half hour it took us includes picture taking.

0950

1340

Visit Deer Creek Falls

.2

2.7

Upon arrival at Deer Creek falls, we were greeted by park rangers who wanted to see our permits and know our identity.  They were checking to see that we were camping in our designated spots and were on our pre-planned schedule.  Thus, after 5 days of not seeing a soul, our first encounter with humanity was to ensure that we were playing by the rules.

Diamond River Runners had a boat full of people visiting Deer Creek Falls.  We might have objected to their luxury intruding on our wilderness had their Captain – Brock – not invited us to a fresh food luncheon.  He also wisely treated the rangers who were checking his paperwork as well. 

We took numerous photos of Deer Creek Falls in different lighting contitions.

Meet hiker www.wildernessvagabond.com

1340

1400

Hike to
Porch & Jacuzzi

.6

3.3

The hike up from Deer Creek Falls up to Deer Creek Narrows, the Porch, and the Jacuzzi was uneventful.  By now we are hiking well established trails that see hundreds of sets of feet every season. 

1400

1515

Visit Jacuzzi

Time spent picture taking, cooling off in the Jacuzzi, and provisioning with water.

1515

1635

Hike to Tapeats Creek Beach along the Colorado

2.5

5.8

Begin the journey to lower Tapeats Creek by crossing Deer Creek just 25 feet north of the Jacuzzi.  This crossing requires wading as there is no assisted crossing.  Then follow the excellent trail up a short quarter mile and 350 vertical feet through a saddle and then down 1.75 miles and 650 vertical feet to Hundred and Thirty-Five Mile Rapids.  After reaching the saddle, the trail remains high on the bluff in order to skirt the Granite Narrows – reported to be the Colorado River’s narrowest point.  The final 450 feet of the descent occurs in just .3 miles and winds up at a large sandy beach adjacent to One Hundred Thirty-Five Mile Rapids.  

1635

1700

Cool down stop

We quickly noticed that hiking along the Colorado river in the loose sand and tamarisk bush is hotter than hiking the contours above the inner gorge.  So we walked to the far end of Hundred and Thirty Five Mile Rapids and made one of our usual stops to cool down. 

1700

1730

Hike

.7

6.5

For the next ¾ mile the trial continued along the river.  The trail remained mostly soft sand.  Temperature was very hot – middle 100’s we guessed. 

1730

1740

Hike

.1

6.6

At GPS:  N36.3748 W112.4773 one encounters a black schist outcrop with a 60 foot vertical drop right to the river.  We understand that when the river level is down, one can circumnavigate.  But on this day in May2009, there was to much water and after just 100 ft of circumnavigation attempt, we had to retrace.  Instead, we hiked up and over the 60 foot high black schist outcropping.  Books warn about the difficulty of this obstacle, but we found the generous handholds, and excellent footing.   We did not need to remove packs as suggested by some references.  This was a very simple obstacle compared to those encountered in Indian Hollow, Jumpup, and Kanab canyons.  Once on top of the outcrop, simply walk about 600 feet and then head back down. 

1740

Hike

.5

7.1

After another ½ mile we arrived at the confluence of Tapeats Creek and the Colorado River.  The trail is along the river and remained mostly soft sand.  Temperature was very hot.

1755

Camp

There are a number of campsites to choose from.  We chose one as close to the Colorado River in order to benefit from the cooling effect.  The river Water was 52 degrees.  The air temperature was 104 degrees.

Day 5 was an excellent day as far as injuries were concerned.  Our feet were less abused.  And we were not as tired as previous days.  Plus we were beginning to feel better hydrated again.  We counted boats once again since most of the day was along the Colorado. The tally totaled 31 – 5 big rafts, 5 smaller rafts, 19 oar boats, and 2 kayaks.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0620

0825

De-camp

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

0825

1020

Hike

2.7

2.7

The trail leaves the beach right at the corner of Tapeats Creek and the Colorado River and switchbacks immediately up the hillside gaining 300 feet.  Then the trail levels out and contours up Tapeats Creek.  Actually, the trail gradually looses elevation and in 30 minutes one finds themself back streamside at Tapeats Creek with a net elevation gain of only 60 feet by altimeter watch.  Then it’s back up again, more contouring upstream, followed by gradual descent.  This saw-tooth behavior is repeated 3 times.

By mile 2.5, the saw-toothing is over and one walks along the river to mile 2.7 and Tapeats Lower Camp

1035

1125

Hike

1.1

+880 ft

3.8.

Very shortly after leaving Tapeats Lower Camp, the trail turns left and climbs up the Thunder River Valley.  Within 5 minutes, one gets the first glimpse of Thunder River both near and far.  A series of meandering switchbacks gains 880 ft over the course of just over a mile to the big falls at Thunder River.  Our time making the 1.1 mile climb was a leisurely 50 minutes largely due to making 16 photo stops of the falls including carefully arranged Margaret and Doug plus falls.  At the 1 mile point from the Tapeats Lower Camp, one comes to a “Y” in the trail.  The left fork continues on up to Surprise valley and the Esplanade.  The right fork heads closeup to Thunder River falls

1125

1515

Visit Thunder River

Thunder River is a great place to spend the heat of the day and we spent 4 hours there.  When we visited Thunder River in 1999 one could get right to the spot where the water bursts forth from the cliff.  We have a few photos of this. We even read reports of groups working their way part-way into the tunnel.  Erosion has taken its toll and in 2009 it appeared impossible get within 50 feet of the opening without serious climbing gear.

Air temperature away from the falls was 95 degrees.  Air temperature adjacent to the falls was 68 degrees.

1515

1710

Hike to Surprise Valley and Esplande

2.5

 

+500

-200

+350
+950

ft

6.3

Upon departing Thunder River, one retraces their steps to the “Y” in the trail and takes the left fork.  Then it’s +500 vertical feet and 0.3 mile to the plateau commonly called Surprise Valley.  Since the hiking is on a well-worn trail, the only difficulty is the heat and the elevation gain. 

During the 0.7 mile traverse across Surprise Valley, 200 vertical feet of elevation is lost.  The low point roughly corresponds to a fork in the trail with a right turn heading obviously to the rim and a straight or left branch heading down into Deer Creek.   From this low point it is 1300 vertical feet and 1.4 miles to the Esplanade.  The first 350 vertical feet is on an easy grade.  The last 950 vertical feet is a series of what seemed like 100 switchbacks.

1710

1720

Hike to Camp

.1

6.4

We camped within a quarter mile of reaching the Esplanade.  The campsite temperature at 1800 hours was a comfortable 84 degrees.

Start Time

Stop Time

Activity

Miles
&
Elev This

Part

Miles For Day

Notes

0700

0845

de-camp

0.1

0.1

We hung our food from our hiking poles.  Thankfully, they were not raided by critters. 

Temperature 60 degrees in the morning.

Initial distance is the traverse back to the trail.

0845

1000

Hike

Esplanade to Trail Split

2.9

+450 ft

3.0

In the first 1.0 mile 450 feet of elevation is gained from the rim of the Esplanade on to the broad plateau. 

At the 2.9 mile point the well-marked intersection with the Monument Point trail is encountered.  Only another net 50 feet of elevation is gained.  In this stretch at mile points 1.8 and 2.4 it can be a bit un-nerving as the trail seems to head in the wrong direction for a quarter mile in each case.  Continue forward as the intersection lies ahead at mile 2.9. 

The right fork goes to Monument Point and the left fork goes to Indian Hollow. 

1000

1200

Hike Esplanade to Coconino assault

4.4

-400 ft

7.4

Continuing on to Indian Hollow, the trail heads to within ¾ mile of the Coconino wall without any indication of making the ascent.  Instead, the trail is skirting the east upper reaches of  Deer Creek Canyon.  The canyon is crossed at 4.3 from the Esplanade Rim.   Once the Canyon is crossed the next 2.6 miles entails an elevation loss of 400 ft until crossing of the west fork of the upper reach of Deer Creek Canyon.  From here, its nothing but up. 

1200

1310

Hike

1.8

+1200

ft

9.2

The next 0.5 mile heads west parallel to the rim and very gradually gains elevation.  The route is signed as trail 23.  With the break in the Coconino in sight, the trail turns toward the cliff and heads up aggressively.  After the top of the Coconino is reached, the trail turns due east for 0.7 mile and climbs another 300 feet to the north rim. 

1325

1335

Hike

0.2

9.4

Once at the North Rim it’s just 0.2 mile to the parking lot. 

1335

Depart

Temperature on the North Rim = 77 degrees